Tao Tao Ju (Xiguan Dim Sum)

Tao Tao Ju (literally 'House of Joy') has been serving morning tea continuously since 1880, when it began as a small tea stand in the old Xiguan merchants' quarter. The flagship Xiguan branch is the one that matters — three floors of carved redwood screens, hanging lanterns, and waiters pushing wheeled steamer trolleys (a tradition most modern places have dropped). Signature dishes: lao po bing (wife cake), guo zhuan rou (pan-fried pork dumplings), iced silken tofu, and the absurdly precise har gow shrimp dumplings — the kitchen folds each one with 14 pleats by hand. Yum cha hours 7:00-11:30 am and 14:30-17:00; the morning tea seating is the authentic experience but expect 30-60 min wait without a reservation. Lunch and dinner serve full Cantonese banquet menu. Most signage in Chinese only — pre-screenshot dish names on Trip Advisor or 大众点评, or just point at the trolley. ¥80-150/person for dim sum.