Shichahai (Houhai)

Shichahai is a trio of connected lakes — Qianhai (Front Sea), Houhai (Back Sea), and Xihai (West Sea) — that have been Beijing's leisure water since the Yuan dynasty made it the imperial capital. The dense hutong neighborhood around the lakes preserves 700 years of layered courtyard architecture, including the former residences of Prince Gong, Soong Ching-ling, and Mei Lanfang (the great Peking Opera actor). After 5 PM, the area transforms — a 2-km bar street wraps the southern shore of Houhai, lake-side restaurants serve hotpot and skewers, and rickshaws ferry tourists through the alleys. By day, locals row paddle boats or fish from the embankments; in deep winter the lakes freeze and become a free public ice rink. Rent a bike to circle the lakes (about 45 minutes) — that's the best way to see how the rhythm shifts between residential alleys and tourist zones.